Chocolate Week is
nearly upon us, which means there are all sorts of chocolate related
events going on up and down the country. Many restaurants & bars
will be having special chocolate themed menus for the week, and last
night we were invited along for a preview of a very chocolatey addition
to the menu at The Botanist in Sloane Square.
The mixologists at The Botanist and their sister venue Chiswell
Street Dining Rooms, have come up with four special hot chocolate
cocktails, all made with Hotel Chocolat’s ‘liquid chocolate’ range of drinking chocolates.
We were lucky enough to sample all of them….
The Ultimate Hotel Chocolat (£4.00)
This is a non alcoholic hot chocolate cocktail. So really it’s just a hot chocolate. It’s made with Hotel Chocolat’s caramel liquid chocolate with hazelnut syrup and mint. I’m not the biggest fan of chocolate and mint, and while this is quite refreshing, it was just a bit too sweet and creamy for my tastes. This was particularly evident after having tasted the other cocktails, which are all richer. If you can’t have alcohol, it’s a reasonable hot chocolate, but it’s only really going to have appeal to serious mint-choc fans.Chocolate Orange Melt (£8.00)
Made with dark chocolate and orange pieces, Cointreau, double cream, orange bitters and decorated with orange zest. This one was much more like it. The aroma of the fresh orange zest immediately draws you in, and there’s just the right balance of orange flavour and alcohol to warm you up nicely on an Autumn evening. Orange and chocolate is another of those combinations that people tend to love or hate, but this one is definitely worth trying.Naughty but Spice (£8.00)
This one is our favourite. Made with Aztec Chilli Chocolate and spiced rum, and decorated with a sprig of Rosemary. This is a deliciously warming hot chocolate with just the right level of alcohol and a very slight chilli kick for that little bit of extra warmth. The Botanist have apparently tweaked the recipe on this one, and it was originally much more alcoholic. They seem to have got it right now. This is the one you have to try.
Nutty Divine (£8.00)
This cocktail is made with Hotel Chocolat’s classic Liquid Chocolate, Jamaican Rum, Creme De Cacao and hazelnut syrup. It’s the one that has the strongest alcohol flavour, and if you love the flavour of rum, you’ll like this one. For us, it wasn’t quite up to the ‘Naughty But Spice’ cocktail, but this is the one you should go for if you want a little more of an alcoholic kick.These hot chocolate cocktails are available at The Botanist and Chiswell Street Dining Rooms from 8th – 14th October. Thanks to The Botanist for allowing us to preview them, and to Judith for the invitation.
The highlight of my Chocolate Week
so far has been the opportunity to sit down for a private tasting and a
chat with Cecilia Tessieri, founder and maitre chocolatier of Amedei.
Amedei are one of the best bean-to-bar chocolate makers in the world.
As well as producing their own bars, truffles and more, they supply
patissiers the world over with some of the finest couverture chocolate
available.
Amedei started making pralines in 1990, but soon became frustrated
that the chocolate they were buying in wasn’t of the right quality or
didn’t meet their own ethical standards. It was that frustration that
led them to start making their own chocolate from the bean.
So few people make their own chocolate these days that chocolate
making machinery is very hard to come by – a common issue faced by
start-up bean to bar chocolate makers. So while Amedei hunted down
antique machinery for their factory, Cecilla explored the world, finding
the best quality cacao.
Today, Amedei chocolate is available throughout the world, and it’s a
name synonymous with quality. Their range includes their famous ’9′ and
‘Toscano’ blends, as well as single origin chocolates, and the quite
delicious new chocolate & hazelnut spreads pictured above. We were
lucky enough to get to try most of the range with Cecilia who explained
each chocolate as we went through them.
The recipe for Amedei’s range of blended chocolates has been
developed and adapted over the years. Despite sourcing beans from the
same locations, local conditions and other factors mean the flavour
changes slightly from year to year. Customers, of course, demand a
consistent flavour, so Amedei are able to make slight changes to their
blends so the chocolate we eat maintains that flavour profile.
For me, the revelation was Amedei’s single origin chocolates which I
hadn’t encountered before. These are all made to exactly the same recipe
with no added cocoa butter. These chocolates perfectly illustrate the
difference that changing nothing but bean origin can make to a
chocolate.
Perhaps the most interesting aspect that encompassed all of Amedei’s
products was the subtlety. Although distinctive, none of the chocolates
we tried were ‘aggressive’ or challenging. Even the Madagascan single
origin chocolate, known for its intense, fruity flavour and acidity, had
a slow and gentle flavour delivery.
Ceclia calls this a ‘feminine touch’, and it’s something that has
been designed into Amedei’s range. They are made with quality
ingredients, but remain simple and understated.
I know there are differing opinions about Amedei, but I’ve always
found them to consistently produce high quality chocolate. If you’ve
never tried it, I can highly recommend picking up a bar of their famous Number 9. Even better, if you can get hold of the small carre squares, try a few different varieties together.
My hour spent immersed in the world of Amedei, was both exciting and informative. Even if I did leave a little bit of a mess.
Our thanks to King’s Fine Foods, UK distributors of Amedei, who arranged our meeting with Cecila, and to Fortnum & Mason (who also stock a range in their chocolate department) for hosting it.
Without doubt, the question I was asked most during Chocolate Week was “What’s your favourite chocolate?”
It is of course, a question that’s impossible to answer. When you’re
trying new chocolates every day, you’re always making amazing new
discoveries, and it’s very difficult to compare current favourites with
things you’ve had in the past.
Then there’s the added problem of what people mean when they say
‘chocolate’. Do they mean chocolate bar? Milk or dark? Truffle?
Chocolatier? Chocolate maker?
I can’t answer these questions on the spot, but I thought it would be
useful to write down a list of some of my current favourite chocolates.
Note that these are changing all the time, and they’re limited to what
I’ve been exposed to. Ask me again tomorrow and I’ll probably come up
with a completely different list. Partly because my tastes will be
different tomorrow and partly because I will almost certainly have made
another wonderful discovery.
But right here, right now, this is what I like.
Favourite Dark Chocolate Bar
Gru Grococo
This joint venture between The Grenada Chocolate Company and Rococo is probably the most ethically produced chocolate bar we’ve ever tried. It also happens to be one of the most delicious, and despite the hefty price, it’s something everyone should try.
Favourite Milk Chocolate Bar
Duffy’s Corazon Del Ecuador With Cocoa Nibs & Oak Smoked Salt
This would be my guilty pleasure, but there’s really nothing to feel guilty about. I simply adore this milk chocolate, and I’m sure you will as well. I’m very glad that Simon reviewed it back in September, as it means I can buy it as a self indulgent treat without having to worry about writing a review. One of the best milk chocolates I’ve ever tasted.
Favourite Filled Chocolate
This one is much more difficult. I’ve been particularly impressed with Damian Allsop’s water ganaches lately, but a perennial favourite would have to be Paul A Young’s sea-salt caramel. It’s quite boring by modern standards, but I find it’s the kind of chocolate I enjoy whatever my mood. There are much more exotic flavours out there (I’m currently also loving Paul’s Aqua Riva Tequila Truffle), but this simple dome of goodness is enough for me.Favourite Chocolatier
This changes almost daily, but right here, right now, it’s Damian Allsop. He doesn’t do as many experimental flavours as some other chocolatiers, and on the face of it, his creations are quite simple. But his attention to detail and ability to natural chocolate pull flavours out of the chocolate with the simple addition of water is amazing. I particularly like his Pacari Raw water ganache.Favourite Chocolate Maker
Duffy Sheardown. I remember when we interviewed him for World Chocolate Guide at Chocolate Unwrapped last year, Duffy said making chocolate was ‘surprisingly easy’. Well Duffy has had a tough year and has lost a great deal of chocolate due to circumstances beyond his control. But he has fought back and is currently making some of his best chocolate ever. I don’t believe for a minute that making chocolate from the bean is easy, but it’s the hard work and determination to make it work that make Duffy’s chocolate some of the best in the world.Favourite Patissier
Hands down, William Curley. There is of course plenty of great patisserie around London and around the world, but I can only go on what I am exposed to and I particularly like the way William works with chocolate. He is of course a chocolatier as well, but it’s the understanding of chocolate that brings to his patisserie that I enjoy the most.The main reason I like him though is simply that he’s such a nice guy. He’s passionate yet very approachable and easy to talk to. He also wrote my favourite chocolate book of all time, Couture Chocolate.
And There’s More…
Of course, that list only scratches the surface of my favourites. There are many, many other names I need to mention. The amazing people like Amano, Askinosie and Soma making chocolate from the bean in North America. Family business like Chococo, who have the constant struggle of keeping things going during a recession, yet retain their vision of using quality, local ingredients. And let’s not forget, Paul A Young, who makes my favourite chocolate creation of all time, the Easter Simnel Brownie.
Then there’s Hotel Chocolat. A British company that’s now getting rather big internationally, yet still hanging on tightly to its ethics as they expand.
Ingredients
To make 12 of Christmas Tree Chocolate Cupcakes you will need…- 150g self-raising flour
- 75g plain flour
- 35g cocoa powder
- 165g caster sugar
- 150g butter, softened
- 3 eggs
- 150ml milk
- 100g unsalted butter, softened
- 600g icing sugar, sifted
- 60ml milk
- Green food colouring
- 100s and 1000s, sprinkles or choc chips to decorate
Method
Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan-assisted). Line 12 holes of muffin pans with paper cases (brown paper cases are perfect!).
Sift the flours, cocoa and sugar into a medium mixing bowl. Add the butter, eggs and milk and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until all ingredients are combined. Increase to medium speed and beat until mixture is smooth and has turned paler in colour.
Fill each paper case with mixture three-quarters full. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Cream butter using electric mixer until the butter turns pale and smooth. Add the milk and half the icing sugar. Beat until well combined. Add the remaining icing sugar and beat until mixture is light and fluffy.
Add enough green colouring to get the shade you like. The mixture should be a spreadable paste similar to Peanut Butter… If it is too dry add some more milk, if it is too wet add more icing sugar. You can also use 600ml of cream and whip to stiff peaks with green colouring for an easier frosting.
Using a star nozzle, pipe swirls of the green frosting generously onto each cooled cupcake and decorate as you desire… You could also try a chocolate shaped star for the top of your tree, drizzle chocolate over your tree as tinsel or dust with icing sugar for a snow covered tree.
Sift the flours, cocoa and sugar into a medium mixing bowl. Add the butter, eggs and milk and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until all ingredients are combined. Increase to medium speed and beat until mixture is smooth and has turned paler in colour.
Fill each paper case with mixture three-quarters full. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Cream butter using electric mixer until the butter turns pale and smooth. Add the milk and half the icing sugar. Beat until well combined. Add the remaining icing sugar and beat until mixture is light and fluffy.
Add enough green colouring to get the shade you like. The mixture should be a spreadable paste similar to Peanut Butter… If it is too dry add some more milk, if it is too wet add more icing sugar. You can also use 600ml of cream and whip to stiff peaks with green colouring for an easier frosting.
Using a star nozzle, pipe swirls of the green frosting generously onto each cooled cupcake and decorate as you desire… You could also try a chocolate shaped star for the top of your tree, drizzle chocolate over your tree as tinsel or dust with icing sugar for a snow covered tree.
Panforte, is a Christmas fruit cake which comes from Siena, Italy. It
is similar to a traditional fruit cake but is chewy not crumbly –
leading to the arguments as to if this is a cake or a candy… But
considering the gorgeous texture and taste – who cares what it is
classed as?
Ingredients
- 250g dried fruit, chopped (see below)
- 1/2 cup (120g) brown sugar
- 2 tbs honey
- 1 cup (250ml) water
- 100g dark chocolate, chopped
- 150g nuts, chopped (see below)
- 1/4 cup (50g) plain flour
- 1/2 tbs ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tbs ground nutmeg
- 1/2 tbs gound ginger
- 1/4 tbs gound cardamom
- 1/4 tbs ground cloves
Method
Preheat oven to 150ºC. Line the base of a 20cm spring form round cake pan or tart pan with baking paper.Place dried fruit, brown sugar, honey and water into a saucepan and stir over a medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 10 minutes until mixture thickens (similar to jam).
Add the chocolate and stir until melted and the mixture is smooth. Add the nuts, flour and all the spices to the syrup mixture and stir well to combine. Transfer to the lined pan and smooth the top.
Bake for 30 minutes until set. Remove from the oven and dust with icing sugar while still hot. Leave in the pan until fully cool.
Once cool remove from the pan and enjoy!
Ingredients
To make 36 Chocolate and Candy Cane Christmas Cookies you will need:For The Cookies
- 300g plain flour
- 40g cocoa powder
- 5g baking powder
- 250g butter, softened
- 155g caster sugar
For The Icing
- 100g peppermint candy canes
- 230g icing sugar
- 30g cocoa powder
- 60ml boiling water
Method
Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan-assisted). Line two oven trays with baking paper.
Sift together the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder into a mixing bowl and set aside.
Use an electric mixer to beat the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl until pale and creamy. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine.
Roll tablespoonfuls of mixture into balls and place onto the lined trays and then gently flatten.
Bake in preheated oven, swapping trays halfway through cooking, for 12-15 minutes.. Remove from oven and set aside on trays to cool completely.
Place candy canes into a large resealable plastic bag and close the bag. Gently smash with a rolling pin or the base of a saucepan until coarsely crushed. Or, process in food processor using pulsing action until crushed. Set aside.
Set aside for icing to set and then enjoy!
Sift together the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder into a mixing bowl and set aside.
Use an electric mixer to beat the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl until pale and creamy. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine.
Roll tablespoonfuls of mixture into balls and place onto the lined trays and then gently flatten.
Bake in preheated oven, swapping trays halfway through cooking, for 12-15 minutes.. Remove from oven and set aside on trays to cool completely.
Place candy canes into a large resealable plastic bag and close the bag. Gently smash with a rolling pin or the base of a saucepan until coarsely crushed. Or, process in food processor using pulsing action until crushed. Set aside.
To make the chocolate icing
Combine the icing sugar and cocoa in a small bowl. Add the water and stir to a slightly runny paste. Spread icing over each biscuit and sprinkle with chopped candy canes.Set aside for icing to set and then enjoy!
